When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.
The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.
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